We set off north along route 1 and then 93, towards the Jasper National Park. The first stop within the park was Peyto Lake, where we hiked a short distance up a steep trail in steady snow, to Bow Summit. The view of the lake and surrounding mountains was stunning, but we didn't stay long because of the cold. The next waypoint on our itinerary was Waterfowl Lake, but the road to it was closed. Mistaya Canyon, a bit further on, more than made up for that. Here the river has carved a very deep and narrow path through the limestone strata, creating fantastic shapes. We crossed the Saskatchewan River - the road branching off, probably giving better views/access, was closed - reminding us that winter is approaching when the whole area is liable to close through snow/avalanches etc.
The main attraction for the day, or so we imagined, was to be the Columbia Icefield. As we pulled into the large car park the snow continued weakly, without laying at all, so we didn't need the 4WD. We bought tickets for the Glacier Skywalk, a glass floored platform which projects over the canyon. We rather expected to be suspended over a glacier, judging by what they called it. After a bus ride down the valley, we were directed to a rather kitsch display of information boards, supported by free audio-guides which mostly stated the obvious. The Skywalk itself is constructed of unpainted bare steel plates, and the rust colour doesn't really suit the surroundings. Looking down, we saw not a glacier but rocks, and we had seen a lot of those by now. True, a glacier is visible, but it's the one easily seen from the main site and now we were even further away. Frankly the thing is a rip-off.
After returning to the ticketing building, and a good moan to the staff about their misleading descriptions, we crossed the highway to the lower car park, just below the terminal moraine of the Athabasca Glacier. The glacier is visible from the upper car park, but of course not from the lower one because of the moraine. By now the snow was heavier, visibility was terrible, and we chickened out of trudging over the moraine to the glacier in the biting wind.
But further down the valley we were rewarded with the spectacles of the Athabasca Falls, and a little later the Sunwapta Falls. The depth of the water-carved gorges was even greater, and in particular the Sunwapta Falls were superbly presented, with extensive paved walkways. One of these even went down an old gorge that the river had abandoned, affording close contact with the eroded walls.
We discovered last night that tonight's accommodation is sited some 30 minutes from Jasper itself. Also we had no idea whether we had catering facilities in the room. The hotel didn't reply to an email, and all day we were without mobile signal. Once in Jasper Les phoned the hotel, but the phone ran out of credit mid-call. There followed a frustrating call to T-Mobile to top up the US SIM card - their automated system required a US zip code for verification. After a long wait a human came on the line and accepted our UK address instead.
After confirming that the room has a fridge and microwave, we went shopping for meals that we could eat in the room instead of relying on restaurants. On arrival at the hotel, actually a sort of village of log cabins, we were given a room upgrade. We are now in a cabin with separate lounge/diner, and full kitchen with all utensils. We could have bought ingredients for a more elaborate dinner! There is a fake wood-burner in the corner of the lounge, as well as blown air heating, so we are toasty warm. We had also invested in some beer which helped boost the meagre fare - supposed to be chicken lasagne but really pasta shapes with some minute chunks of chicken (supposedly). We bulked out the meal with a roll and some delicious salad containing mange tous, grated radish, carrot etc.
We should just about be able to publish the blog here, as the wi-fi is very slow. Phone signal comes and goes. As we are on the train for 3 days after this place, communications will be sporadic for a while!
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