Golden Forests, and Dreaming Spires

In continuing glorious weather, we left Hurricane and headed north east on Interstate 15, turning east on 143 at Parowan. The road turned due south almost immediately, and we found ourselves ascending steadily on what was described as another scenic drive. The terrain became more alpine, as we passed through ski resorts looking odd in the sunshine. Green meadows were bordered with forests of pine and aspen, the latter at this altitude displaying autumnal colours much earlier than those lower down. We were surprised to find ourselves at 10,400 feet when we stopped for photography, with the air fresh but not too cold.

The descent of the plateau was a riot of colour, as the aspens closed into the road and vied with each other to shimmer with the most golden light. We passed the very pretty Panguitch Lake, oddly quite a few miles from the town of Panguitch itself, the road turning north east. The town was surprisingly attractive, with lots of green open spaces. We filled up the gas-guzzling RV and headed east on route 12 towards Bryce Canyon. Our first impressions were more than positive, as we drove through short red rock tunnels with towering spires of wind-sculpted pink limestone either side. But that was only the hors d'oeuvres. A couple of miles later we flashed our National Parks pass yet again and entered the park proper. A short debate ensued on whether to park and ride on the free shuttle bus, or to risk driving on and struggling to park the RV. Being in a reckless mood, and not having the time to hang about for buses, we went for the latter.

For a change, we probably made the right decision. After lunch in the car park, off we went to the first view points, called Sunrise and Sunset. No words can get near describing the array of baroque pinnacles, stained in various shades from pale pink to red by iron oxide (rust). Bryce Canyon is really a huge valley, several miles wide, and the wind has eroded one side of it into fantastic shapes, with many side canyons and amphitheatres. The pinnacles commonly have rocks balanced on their tops, called `hoodoos' because of associations with magical legends.

We drove on to other view points, each one different and equally spectacular.  The final one we visited was a huge natural bridge, obviously drilled through by the wind which howls up the cleft on the escarpment. Up to eight dark zone-tailed hawks were seen circling overhead. On the way back to the park entrance we spotted three pronghorns, antelope-like creatures for which this park is well known. There was a further sighting a bit later, with lots of people blocking the road to take photographs.

Our tour was completed in good time to hit the road again and to press on to our next night stop at Canyons of Escalante RV Park. The road swept through quite dramatic scenery, remarkably different from Bryce Canyon, and all part of the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. The number of permutations of scenery based on limestone and sandstone is remarkable.

Tomorrow we continue the scenic drive, but may end up in the middle of nowhere as we head up to Salt Lake City.